- Getting around the island: No cars here - everyone walks, goods are hauled on hand carts, and longtail boats run as water taxis between the beaches.
- Longtail boat price: From Long Beach back to Ton Sai center, about 100 THB per person (200 THB minimum per trip).
- The cross-island trek: The route from the north to the center runs about 7 km through the jungle with some elevation gain.
- Viewpoints: There are 3 official viewpoints on the island, plus one unofficial one hidden right at the end of the ridge that has the best atmosphere of them all.
- Maya Bay: Entry to the national park costs money, there are turnstiles, and swimming directly in the bay is strictly forbidden.
- Diving: A spot that's great even for complete beginners. You'll commonly spot small reef sharks and plenty of marine life.
The Resort and the North of the Island
My trip started at the northern tip of the island. I bought a one-way ticket with Andaman Wave Master. After we landed, a tractor with a trailer was waiting for us - the 800-meter ride on this unconventional mode of transport was an experience in itself. The resort is well set up and handles guests of every age group without any trouble. It's a beautiful spot. If you like peace and quiet with full service, you'll enjoy it here. The complex also has an outdoor gym and a pool. The air-conditioned cabins are scattered up the hillside above the beach. Besides the hotel restaurant, a few hundred meters' walk gets you to some other local places and a small shop with the usual "mountain" markup.
A paved road runs from the north down to the center of the island, but the only traffic you'll meet on it is locals on scooters.
Maya Bay
The iconic spot where the movie The Beach was filmed. We'd paid for a boat trip, but once we saw the crowds from a distance, we told the captain not to bother taking us there and to find us somewhere with fewer people instead. It's an official national park - there are turnstiles, an entrance fee, and you're not even allowed to swim in the water, so I wouldn't recommend the visit. Everything else nearby, snorkeling included, was excellent though.
The Trek from the North to the Center
It was 11am, and after two days at the resort I said goodbye to my friends and continued on alone. My 10-kilo backpack didn't seem like a problem at first, so instead of taking a boat I chose to hike across the island to Loh Dalum Bay. As the temperature climbed, though, and on the stretches with no shade at all, the backpack turned into a serious burden. Along the first part of the route I passed several Tsunami Rescue Points, but otherwise there wasn't much to see.
I soon reached Ao Loh Bakao, a small village in the north with a dusty road, where past noon I didn't run into anyone besides a handful of tourists. Luckily the local restaurant and shop were open, so both my hunger and my water supply were quickly sorted out.
The next stretch was a lot more enjoyable. As soon as I got out of the village, the jungle swallowed me up. The trail was marked reasonably well for tourists. I started climbing, and the backpack seemed to double in weight. Monkeys screeched somewhere in the dense undergrowth, though I didn't want to run into one. After about an hour of climbing I came back out into civilization - right at the unofficial fourth viewpoint. Only three are marked, but this fourth one, tucked away at the very end of the ridge, had the best atmosphere of them all. A big terrace, a stunning view, a little shop, and a hammock. From there it was just a walk past the official viewpoints down into Loh Dalum. The descent (or the climb, from this side) is pretty demanding - the hill is genuinely steep from this direction.
GPS Coordinates of the Route
Diving
The waters around the island are known for their rich marine life. The town has plenty of schools offering dives for complete beginners too. I'd never dived before, but the instructor was great, and thanks to my previous experience with a freediving course everything went smoothly. On my very first dive I saw small sharks, and shortly after, the iconic fish from Finding Nemo. I was thrilled, plain and simple. Under the surface it's a completely different world. I'd recommend trying it while the marine ecosystem still allows it.
Ton Sai and Loh Dalum
Ton Sai is the island's main harbor, where most of the ferries from Phuket or Krabi arrive. It has the largest concentration of accommodation, restaurants, tour agencies and shops. It's the busiest part of the island and the crossroads almost everyone visiting Phi Phi passes through.
Loh Dalum is the northern counterpart to Ton Sai, just a few minutes' walk away across the narrow neck of the island. During the day it's a quiet bay with shallow water and white sand, perfect for sunbathing or water sports. Once the sun sets, though, it turns into the center of nightlife, with beach bars, live music and fire shows.
One great thing about the whole island is that there are no cars at all. Instead of trucks, locals move goods either by boat or by hand cart.
The South of the Island
There isn't much to see in the south of the island beyond some nice beaches. One resort after another lines the coast. I made it all the way to Long Beach, which was quite a slog in the heat. So for the trip back to Ton Sai, I opted for a local boat for 100 baht instead.
